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During October/November 2010 Madeline spent some time in Africa working in Kampala Uganda and also visiting Kenya and Tanzania.
On day 32 she found herself in Arusha - this is her diary for that day.
Day 32
Nairobi – Arusha
Another early start to pack the soggy tents before setting off for the first time in the Acacia truck driven by Vessel – a South African guy who’s been driving the overland trucks for the past 15 years. After a rather bumpy drive we arrived at the Tanzanian border. Smooth interchange with immigration before heading off towards Arusha. Tanzania instantly different from both Kenya and Uganda – perhaps a middle ground between the two. Its big barren scoured plains framed by high volcanic mountains in contrast to Uganda’s dense lush green vegetation. However the roadside vendors lining the streets with local produce household wares and sim cards is much more like Uganda and unlike Kenya which is more developed with a western feel.
On arrival in Arusha, a busy town well placed for the passing Mt. Kilimanjaro trade, Laura and I took the opportunity to go to Tengeru, a place where Nanny spent 6 years of her teenage years at a British/Polish missionary camp after fleeing Siberia. We found a taxi driver and negotiated a price for the trip. The road to Tengeru was a beautiful one, the lining of Jakaranda purple blossoms against the high slopes of the dominating Mount Meru was a welcomed colourful surprise.
After approximately 10km’s on a tarmac road we turned off onto a busy dusty track which was filled with local people and their wares for the twice weekly Tengeru market. After slowly making our way through the mass of people trading we carried our way down the shaded road.
We had several verbal exchanges regards to location with passing locals, the last one with a local boy who climbed into the taxi to show us the way. We reached our destination in the grounds of the Tengeru Horticultural Research Institute and Livestock Training Institute. These institutes took over the Polish camp when the Poles left – the Polish Cemetery is marked by a stone memorial marking the settlement here between 1942 and 1952.
To my surprise and delight the cemetery and surrounding area had been kept beautifully maintained with a groomed and bounded path leading the way through flower borders to the large locked cemetery gates.
The sign in English refers to Polish War Refugees. The Polish word "Wygnancow" is closer to Exiles in reality should be War Deportees.
On the wall adjacent to the gate is a Polish /English sign with a mobile phone number in the bottom right hand corner. Following a quick call by the taxi driver to the caretaker (Simon Joseph) he arrived 10 minutes later on a rickety bicycle with the keys to the gate. After a quick photo he opened the gates so that we could look around.
I was struck at the beauty, calmness and tranquillity of this place, thinking of Nanny’s time here. I hope she found it an equally safe refuge following the horrors of Siberia and the journey out of Russia that she had witnessed. Despite the young graves that make up the cemetery this was a place of sadness but somehow one of hope – my tearful eyes were not of pain but of a sense of connection as the jigsaw puzzle pieces fit together to form a picture of nanny's history – my cultural heritage & the reason why I’m here today.
We stayed at the cemetery some time with Simon sharing stories with us from his 12 year caretaker role here – a role it is apparent he takes pride in.
He told us about Sabina, a girl who remained in Arusha following the camps closure who married Mr. Edward (Wȯjtowicz) . Sabina died a few years ago and her grave is with the rest of her family amongst the other polish graves – her husband still lives in Arusha the last survivor of the camp living in Arusha.
In a small building in the corner of the cemetery adorned with wooden Polish Town signs
Simon showed us two volumes of Visitor Books with lists of names of those who have visited the site many of whom have family ties connected to this place. Laura and I dutifully added our names.
Finally he showed us the plaque against the gates summarising the sentiment of this place – it remembers those who fled Siberia and thanks Africa for providing a safe home – an accurate summary it seems from the feeling of care and commitment to the Polish people that Tengeru leaves on you.
A long thoughtful taxi journey back to the Meserani Snake Park followed which was our camp for the night – soon we were back with our group conversing and storytelling of the days outings – a warm and contented feeling that filled me remained.
Getting to Tengeru was a real highlight of the entire trip! If you are ever in Tanzania it is definately worth a visit.
Madeline
Longer Video Tengeru from 2006 -
skip to 9 minutes if you don't want to listen to excerpts from mass - Part 2 from approx 12 minutes in the home of Sabina and Mr Edward.
nb. Notice the number of Polish Greek Catholic crosses on the graves in the video - these are either Uniates form Eastern Poland - posibly the religion of our Great Grandparents ?? - or they could be Russian Orthodox, or even Greek Orthodox Poles !! ! (see Parczew page)
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